* In the last week, Mark and I have stayed at the lovely Casa Sur Hotel in Recoleta, and visited the somewhat-crazy Recoleta Cemetery (check out these insane mausoleums – beautiful and a bit creepy).

*We’ve travelled to Gualeguaychu (3 hours each way, at 5pm and 3am!) for the Carnaval, Argentina’s largest carnival and an impersonation of Rio Carnival (which we’ll be missing, alas).
It was incredible – such excitement and passion and energy in the air! I’ve never experienced anything like it. Check out our very abbreviated Best Moment (the battery died) and Mark’s pics – ooh la la!

* We stayed at the pretty amazing Faena Hotel and Universe, in Puerto Madero (also in Buenos Aires), where we watched a breathtaking tango show (truly – it took my breath away). Here are another couple of pics, and a moment – see them tango in action!

* And THEN, as if that wasn’t excitement enough, we find ourselves at the simply stunning Jardin Escondido, Francis Ford Coppola’s very own villa, and recently voted one of Tatler’s 101 Best Hotels in the World.
Wow.

* Tonight, we’re eating at the Faena Bistro, with a chef who trained and worked with Ferran Adria at El Bulli, for seven years.
Next week, it’s back to the real world.

But the excitement is not quite over!

We´re staying in an original estancia house(which is kind of like a large, beautiful, colonial horse ranch) with high-ceilinged bedrooms filled with antiques, a massive shady-treed garden, and horses just outside our window. Every morning we have a long, lazy breakfast and then spend the day lounging by the pool or reading in the shade of the trees or watching the gauchos (authentic Argentinean cowboys!) corralling cattle or horse whispering. Seriously.

Lunchtime sees us having an asano feast (traditional barbeque, i.e. loads of delicious free range meat) either in the restaurant or under the trees, while being serenaded by guitar players and Spanish songstresses. And then it´s time for a siesta before our sunset horse ride through the surrounding pampas…

And then dinner, under the stars.

Really, I could get used to this. The pace of life is slow and peaceful, the views are endless and sun-drenched, and we feel thoroughly spoiled. I´ll post pics and video in the next few days – once we´re back in the city.

Yip, tomorrow we head back to Buenos Aires! I´m excited. We´re going to explore the Recoleta area, which everyone tells us is the best. I´ll keep you posted!

So we’ve been in Brazil for a week, and I feel as if we finally have enough of a taste of it to make a few observations…

But first, an update!

We arrived in Rio de Janeiro after what can only be described as a week of madness. South-East Asia to South Africa for a whirlwind in-and-out visit to pick up fresh insulin and say hello to our families. Then off to South America, another 5 hour time difference, and a whole heap of jetlag. We were in Rio for 3 nights, right on Copacabana Beach, luxuriating in the delicious glamour of it all and soaking up a few sights (mainly the beach and the beautiful Sugar Loaf mountain, where you swing between two incredible vantage points on cable cars).

Then we headed off to the mountains surrounding Petropolis, to a wonderful little hidden gem known as the Green Bridge House, home to some remarkable views, stunning nature, and delicious food. Really delicious.

After our two nights of peace we headed back to Rio for a night, mainly to check out the Corcovado (or Christ the Redeemer, as he’s also known) – the most famous landmark of Rio, and to buy some extremely cheap Havaiana slops.

And then we boarded a bus for Paraty, where we are now, a charming little seaside town that’s been declared a UNESCO National Heritage Site, and feels to me like a little European village – it’s all cobblestones, horse-drawn carriages and charming cafes.

So now! A few brief impressions:

* Brazilians are reallllly confident. Everybody walks around in skimpy outfits (tiny tank tops, miniscule shorts, crop tops, you name it), no matter what their body looks like, or how old they are. I like it!

* Everybody is really tanned. Seriously tanned. Chocolate doesn’t even begin to describe it. I feel pale.

* It’s crazy expensive. Obviously we’re still in a South-East Asian mindframe, but everything seems to cost at least three times as much as it did in Asia, and more than it would at home.

* It is so beautiful. The bus rides double as scenic journeys, even if you’re only going an hour (as we did on our way the mountains around Petropolis).

* The food is dangerously delicious, and full of carbs. I mean, everything is a carb – loads of white bread, deep fried pastries, deep fried snacks, meat and cheese. I’ve had to hold back (a lot) on the diabetic front, or I’d be gorging myself and taking massive doses of insulin… I’m already on far more than I was in South-East Asia!

More observations tomorrow, I promise. Sorry for the long gap in communication – internet has been a little tricky to come by of late.

To make up for it, here are some views from the last few days…

A little tired.
As you can imagine.
But now staying in the simply glorious Copacabana Palace (till tomorrow).
Yup, you guessed it, right on Copacabana Beach. In Rio.
Quite surreal.
Especially seeing as I have that song in my head on a constant loop.
You do too now, don’t you?
Co-pa-ca-ba-na!

South America already feels more familiar.
Potatoes. Meat. (Beans). Fruit.
Loving it!

Will report more coherently when the fog of tiredness lifts completely.
I’m guessing tomorrow. Or the next day.
10 hour time difference between today and where I was a week ago.
Enough said.

I’m back! Sorry, it’s been a bit of a silent week – we’ve had extremely sporadic internet access and I wanted to wait till I had a little down-time to update you properly.

It’s been a lovely week. Ever since my bad health day when we first arrived on Phu Quoc Island I’ve been feeling heaps better (thank goodness!) due in large part, I think, to my secret to travelling with diabetes (which I reveal in this week’s video diary… to be posted tomorrow).

We had a really fun couple of days in Phu Quoc – the first two nights we spent at an eco-friendly resort called Mango Bay, right in the middle of nowhere surrounded by stunning views and beautiful beaches. Then we moved to town (we were craving shops and snacks and easy access to things), although still with a beautiful sea view and a mere 3 minute walk from the sea. What a stunning sea it is! Clear and bright blue, no waves, warm… heavenly! (You can see some footage of it in our video diary and in our best moments… Be warned, though! You might get jealous.)

We had a fair amount of work to do – catching up on hotel reviews for Just the Planet and real work, to try and earn some money as we travel (turns out travelling is rather pricey, who knew?) But we made time each day, usually around sunset, for a long swim in the sea, just as the sun dipped into it and turned it golden-pink-and-purple. Incredible.

It was during one of these late sunset swims that it hit me (once again) how lucky we are to be this age, living this adventure. I feel like there’s this small window of time in life – when you’re old enough to be able to have a clear head and look after yourself overseas, but not so old that you have a mortgage and responsibilities – and we are lucky enough to not only be in that stage but be living it to the full. Some days I find myself longing for a slice of familiarity or to see my family or my friends, but most of the time I feel (quite rightly) like the luckiest girl in the world.

The feeling was heightened by finding this fantastic little restaurant right on the beach where we could sit at small, lantern-lit tables, our feet in the sand, and eat delicious fresh seafood and yummy barbecue, while sipping on iced fresh lemon juice (my new favourite drink – about as diabetically friendly as you can get with something resembling fruit juice). This place (whose name I can’t remember) became our regular hang-out for its’ really reasonable, really fresh food. If you’re planning a visit to Phu Quoc, pop me an email and I’ll give you directions J

We also spent a day scootering all over the island on a hired motorbike, exploring little side streets and beaches, and picnicking right next to the sea… And we popped into the night market for some authentic Vietnamese food (delicious! Although a little strange, I was served flat squares of vermicelli noodles with my pork. Hmmm… How many carbohydrates would that be?)

And then we jetted off to Ho Chi Minh, or Saigon, as it is still known, on our first aeroplane in months! Turns out it was only $20 more expensive to take a 1 hour flight than a 2 and a half hour ferry and a 7 hour bus ride, so we treated ourselves… And what a treat it was. I’ll fill you in on our delicious time in Saigon so far in the next day or two – looks like we’ll probably be more connected this week… If you have any tips for us for Ho Chi Minh, let us know asap (please!)

Any suggestions for us as we head to the North of Vietnam?

First off, for those of you who’ve been asking for more photos so that you can actually see what we’ve been talking about – check out Mark’s Visual Journey of images here. Most of the photos up at the moment are of Thailand, but he’ll have Cambodia pics up in the next week or so.

If you’re interested in living the high life vicariously, be sure to read our Just the Planet luxury reviews (of all the incredible places we’ve been lucky enough to stay at so far). These are also constantly updated, so check back often if you’re keen to plan a luxury South-East Asian journey.

And lastly, be sure to watch our latest video diary, of Week 6&7… We’ve figured out the Cambodia conundrum a little more, and are somewhat in love with the place we’re staying in at the moment – the tiny town of Kampot, on the Mekong River. It’s full of delicious baked goods, river sunsets and charming French colonial architecture. What’s not to love?

And lastly, how cool is Just the Planet, the online travel magazine we work for?
Here’s a quote from the home page of their website:

“We support a global consciousness that recognises the importance of sustainable travel and the responsibility we bear to explore the opportunities it presents for every community a traveller visits. We believe that luxury travel should have and can have a conscience.”

In fact, it was really rather fun. We left Cape Town on Tuesday evening, heading for Doha in Qatar, and from there to Bangkok. I wasn’t so sure about Qatar Airways, I didn’t really have any references for what they’d be like, and I actually had no idea where Doha was a few days ago! Now I can say I’ve been there, if only for a few minutes…

Our Cape Town flight left a little late, but Mark and I were so excited to be on our way (at last!) that it didn’t really matter… In fact, I was so excited that I started dancing around the airport to music on my iPod! You must understand, we’ve been planning and planning and planning for months on end, so to finally be in motion is a pretty spectacular thing!

The flight to Doha was pleasant and uneventful. It was almost full, so there wasn’t any space to stretch out (alas), but there were loads of movies to choose from, and they fed us well and often. We landed in Doha with something crazy like ten minutes to get to our next flight, and would you believe we made it? With only the slightest of rushing. Doha looked really cool, and kind of insane. A vast yellow desert stretching right from the sea, with tall buildings popping up out of the sand. I would have liked to explore it more, actually…

Then on to Bangkok! On a flight that was deliciously empty so we could stretch out over many seats and sleep. Ah, bliss! The food got better and better as the flight continued, till we were actually saying things like, “Ooh, this is yummy!” (an aeroplane first!) I must admit, I was very impressed with Qatar Airways overall. We arrived on time, disembarked with the greatest of ease, and as soon as we got through Thai Passport Control (which was super easy), our bags were waiting! All in all, a very pleasant experience. I’d definitely fly them again.

Then to navigate Bangkok, with its notorious traffic jams and numerous forms of unusual transport (including tuc tucs, songtheuws, buses, taxis and scooters!) We went for the simple choice – an airport express bus, which for the measly sum of 150 baht (about R40) took us a few blocks from our hotel. The smells and sounds that assault you while walking on Bangkok streets are an experience in themselves – pungent aromas from street stalls selling food, exhaust fumes, garbage, fresh mango, other people… It’s an attack on the senses!

But a much-appreciated one.

We’ve been in the beautiful Metropolitan Hotel since last night, so we haven’t done too much exploring (except for lunch, which was quite an adventure – more on food in later posts, I promise), we’ve just been soaking up the comfort and beauty… And recovering from jetlag. We’ll be posting a review of the Metropolitan, along with any other hotels we review for Just the Planet, under their Hidden Gems section – check it out for reviews of the South African gems we stayed at before we left.

Tomorrow we head off into the wild unknown, I’ll let you know alll about it! Also watch out for our Best Moments of the Day, we’ve started posting them and they’re really rather fun (even if I do say so myself!)

PS – Diabetically: so far, so good. My blood sugar has been behaving itself wonderfully, and the food hasn’t been too strange (yet!)

I am all of a sudden SO SO SO excited to be going!!!

So our Thrilling Week and a Half began with a ride on the Blue Train… oh my goodness, how to describe the Blue Train? I’ll post a real review of it on Just the Planet, but let me just tell you it was 27 hours of heaven. We boarded the train tired and stressed out (we were really busy before we left) and disembarked calm and happy. Magical, indeed.

It wasn’t just the train ride – although that was amazing, watching the world go by through large panoramic windows. And it wasn’t just the food – although that was delicious, and plentiful (3 course lunch, afternoon tea, snacks and sundowners, 3 course dinner and breakfast). It was partly the service, which was incredibly friendly and totally on-the-ball. But it was mainly the experience of it… To be on a train rumbling through the wild open spaces of South Africa, perfectly comfortable but simultaneously out in the open. We loved it.

And were actually really sad to step off the train. I felt quite down.

Lucky, then, that our next port of call was the beautiful Illyria House. Totally over-the-top, completely bedecked in antiques, but with an extremely comfortable white-linen-bed and a delicious garden pagoda jacuzzi. Who knew Pretoria could be exotic? We headed off after a silver service breakfast to the Mexican Embassy to get our visas (easy as pie), and shortly afterwards made our way to the bustling heart of Joburg.

I’ve never been a fan of Joburg. It’s one of my least favourite places in South Africa, in fact. But if I could stay at AtholPlace all the time, I might even consider moving there. It was that beautiful. Every segment of the house fit into each other so perfectly that it looked like the pages of an interior design magazine… Only it was deeply comfortable at the same time. I had to do some work while we were there, and my desk was set up in front of white wooden shutters looking out over the garden… Heaven, I tell you!

After AtholPlace we spent a night with Mark’s sister-in-law and nephew (what a cute baby!) and then flew home (to Durban, the city I’m still in love with) for a few days with my family, before heading off to Phinda Private Game Reserve. Mark had only seen a rhino in the wild before we arrived at Phinda. When we left he’d seen a herd of elephant, a journey of giraffe (isn’t that a great collective noun?), a white rhino and her baby, a black rhino marking his territory, a rather shy leopard, a cheetah mother with her three teenagers, hundreds of zebra, nyala and impala, and a chilled-out herd of buffalo. Throw in a bush pig, two crocs (up close!), and a monitor lizard and you can tell we had a busy two days!

Phinda was such a great experience in itself, though, apart from all the game. The staff were wonderfully friendly and really went the extra-mile for us, and their community work projects are truly inspiring. I’m writing it all up for Just the Planet – I’ll let you know when you can read them.

Till then, time to settle back into home for our last 2 weeks before The Big Adventure begins!

We stayed at the One&Only in Cape Town last week (the night before my birthday – best night-before-birthday EVER!) and it was extraordinary. Lavish, luxurious, amazingly comfortable, discreet, beautiful, I would run out of adjectives before I ran out of enthusiasm for it.

Mark and I haven’t really stayed at many 5 star hotels. Our travelling style up till now has been more self-catering cottages than really fancy hotels, but I can tell you right now that I am more than ready for the switch! Of course, we won’t be in fancy hotels the whole time we’re travelling, but if luck is on our side we’ll have a night or two at somewhere incredible in each country. We’ll be reviewing the hotels for Just the Planet – the luxury travel magazine for independent travellers (check them out at www.justtheplanet.com).

For now, we’re just learning the ropes of how best to review hotels, and getting a feel for what is expected at a 5 star place. The review of the One&Only will be up soon – I’ll keep you posted… It was such a treat, really, to be in a place that was entirely focused on comfort, and beauty. The bed was so soft and comfortable, the bath was huge and heavenly, the room looked out over Table Mountain. It honestly felt like a different world.

And yes, it’s a bit of a strange balance to strike – travelling for a cause, to spread the word about diabetes and show that just because you’re diabetic doesn’t mean you can’t follow your dreams – while at the same time staying in these beautiful places and writing reviews of them. But it’s a balance that I think we can strike. Because the whole purpose of this trip is to share the experience of it – and that experience will be wonderful and challenging, luxurious and difficult.

Life as a diabetic is never a smooth ride. You have great days, and awful days, you feel fantastic, and then you feel unwell. Life as a person is like that too, I suppose! And that’s what this trip will be – an illustration of life at its best and worst.
I like that.
I hope you’ll join us on the journey…