That I am well aware that I’m the luckiest girl in the world, and I’m so deeply grateful for the last almost-six months of travelling, but…

I’ve had enough of uncertainty. We’ve had an incredible run of hotels lately – the El Ombu Estancia, the lovely Casa Sur Art Hotel in Recoleta, and now the fabulous Faena Hotel (and Universe) in Puerto Madero. It’s been simply sumptuous. But now today we had a bit of bad luck in that our easy route to Rio de Janeiro didn´t work out, so we have a fair bit of missioning ahead of us, and things are still up in the air.

And all of a sudden I’m longing for some certainty. We’ve started looking for work back home, so all that is hanging in the balance, and we’re still not 100% sure where we’ll be for our last week, so there’s that to think about. The idea of a home and a fridge and a whole lot of sameness all of a sudden seems very attractive!

Perhaps this is what happens at the end of a journey. You start to wind down, to recalibrate back to a real-life frequency so that when you get home you don’t long for adventure every day. I’ve started eating as healthy as possible and exercising so that I can get back into real life mode, as opposed to traveller mode (which looks a lot like eat-everything-in-sight because you don’t know where your next meal is coming from, a dangerous habit to get into!) And I’ve started thinking of home, and family, and friends, and how lovely it will be to be connected again.

Don’t getme wrong, it has been simply incredible, and I wouldn’t exchange a second of it. But one week more will probably be the perfect amount of time till my homebody self re-asserts herself!
And now? We´re off to a tango show! I’ll post a clip tomorrow.

I mentioned this fleetingly in my blog post about what we’ve learned in the last couple of months on the road, but I’d like to elaborate on it a bit… Only because I’ve suddenly had great insight into how much where you are affects how you are, and I want to unpick it a bit.

Let me set the scene:

We’re in Ubud, in central Bali, cultural heart of the island and home to endless rice fields, palm trees, red-roofed traditional houses and stone carvings of weird and wonderful creatures. Also home to a heck of a lot of tourist shops. The main drag is ridiculously touristy – it could be any main street in any country, in fact. But step just a little off this main street and it feels as if you’re in the country: roosters, birds, nature on all sides. The plan was to stay here for 4 days, but we couldn’t decide where to stay, and left it rather late. We eventually decided on Hotel 1, which got great reviews on TripAdvisor, and sounded lovely. Looked lovely, too, when we arrived, set in a tropical orchid garden and with really friendly staff. The problem came when we wanted to go to sleep, around 11pm, and our neighbours, a pair of long-stay women, decided to crank up the cheesy girl tunes (From a Distance and Forever Young, I ask you with tears in my eyes!) and cackle and chatter late into the night… I went out to ask them to keep quiet, but they were actually inside their room. It didn’t sound like it – the walls were made of bamboo, the windows had no glass.

We left early the next morning to find somewhere else to stay.

Hotel 2 seemed far better than Hotel 1. Much bigger room, great little balcony looking out over a rice paddy, free internet. We were really rather happy there till we were woken at 2am by noisy neighbours who had just arrived and wanted to talk (loudly) for an hour or so… I eventually asked them to keep it down, but they were up at 7am again, chattering away. Who was it who said hell is other people?

Again, though, we’d foolishly chosen bamboo walls and no glass in the windows. We wanted to experience ‘authentic’ Balinese life by staying in a home stay, i.e. you essentially stayed in someone’s home. We quickly realised we’re not cut out for communal Balinese life.

So finally, yesterday we found Blessed Hotel 3. Perched in the middle of rice paddies on all sides (take a look at the view from our balcony!) with a huge balcony, massive room and best of all, brick walls! We had the best sleep ever last night, entirely uninterrupted.

What it made me realise, though, is what a profound impact where you are has to how you feel. Yesterday morning I was exhausted, irritable, headachey and fed up. Yes, lack of sleep two nights in a row will do that to you, but so will being somewhere that feels wrong. The manager at Hotel 2 was awful, our shower stopped working (first thing in the morning) and he couldn’t be bothered to apologise for it, he didn’t seem to care that we were checking out 2 days early, we kind of felt like we were in the way. And I’m sure that contributed to how we felt: it was my first real day of travel fatigue.

But today I woke up to a cool breeze blowing through the room, in the middle of gorgeous views on all sides, and walked out to my balcony where the lovely manager brought us a delicious breakfast, with a smile. And I feel happy. Really happy. So pleased to be here, experiencing Bali, so eager to continue exploring and travelling for the next few months. I suppose I never realised how important where you are is to how you feel. Now that I have, I’m going to make sure (as much as I can) that we rest our heads in lovely spots.

PS – It makes me wonder, too, how important a lovely home is to our levels of happiness. Something to think about, hey?

So today, 15 December 2009, marks our halfway point in the trip: we’ve been away three and a half months, we have three and a half months to go.
Yes, alas, although we intended to be away for 9 months, it turns out travelling around the world is more expensive than we’d anticipated! So we’ve had to change our 9 months into 7 months, returning home at the beginning of April 2010. I’m sure in some ways it will turn out to for the best – perhaps it was slightly insane to plan our return date for one week before the World Cup begins, when the whole country will be turned upside down!

I thought it fitting, at this halfway point, to reflect on what it is we’ve learnt so far… Here are some thoughts:

• Travelling is a great teacher. I had no idea I had so much to learn – about myself, about our relationship, about life in general, until I was whisked out of my comfort zone and into completely unfamiliar surroundings.
• A place is made more beautiful if you stay somewhere beautiful. Or, at least, somewhere quite beautiful. We made the decision early on to choose comfort over budget, and it was a really wise one, I think. The times we’ve stayed in really stunning luxury accommodation have been amongst the highlights of our trip so far – where you stay, it turns out, makes a huge difference to how much you enjoy staying there.
• Mark and I make a great team. I always knew this, but in the last couple of months it’s really been put to the test. Travelling with someone 24/7 really shows you their real character, you get to see them tired, grumpy, hungry, sick, worn-out and irritable. And if you still love them after all that, that’s saying something!
• We’re tougher than I thought. Apart from the last week of bad health, Mark and I have hardly been sick at all, despite strange food, strange beds, strange transport and strange weather. It turns out we’re tougher than I thought we would be… It’s amazing how adaptable the human body is.
• There are many forms of transport. Before this trip I’d done a bus, car, bike, scooter and boat. Now I’ve done a becak (bicycle rickshaw), horse-drawn cart, bemo (open-sided minibus), ferry, train and moto (motorbike taxi) – and that’s only in the last week!
• Control isn’t always necessary. This is my hardest lesson, I really like being able to have things as much in control as possible. But you learn, when it’s late afternoon and you don’t know where you’re sleeping that night, and you have to move on tomorrow but you’re not sure how, and there’s no way of finding anything recognizable for dinner, that sometimes you just have to release control. And it is a rather lovely feeling, in fact.
• Going slow is key. To rush around while travelling takes all the joy out of it. You don’t get to experience anything or relax anywhere or have any authentic interactions with people. The slower the better, as far as I’m concerned (and don’t ever only spend one night somewhere – it’s not worth unpacking for!)
• It is possible to travel well with diabetes. I’ve had my fair share of ups and downs these past few months – insulin not working, crazy food, hormones and weather making my blood sugar do unusual things – but all in all it has been SO manageable. Much easier than I thought, in fact. Which just goes to show that although travelling with diabetes is more of a challenge than travelling without it, it’s just one more thing to think about, not something to make you give up entirely.
• Practically:
- Packing and unpacking your suitcase is a nightmare if it’s too full… These incredibly useful Vac Bags have saved our lives on a daily basis. They take all the air out of your clothes so massive piles of stuff shrink into delightfully packable flat packs.
- The rumours are true: You don’t need to change your clothes as often as you think.
- We will never again take being able to drink water out of a tap for granted. Months of bottled water makes tap water seem like a luxury!
- Travelling when you’re sick is just awful. Our solution? Take vitamins every day, don’t try dodgy food, and don’t overdo it.
- Sleep is very important if you want to be able to enjoy every day to the fullest.
- Backpacks give you a sore neck, and let you (mistakenly) believe you have enough space to buy things you don’t need. Suitcases are better.
- Patience is vital.
• We are the luckiest people in the world. To have been able to have these months together, exploring this wonderful world of ours, has been such a gift. And every day we’re able to continue doing it is one more day I feel like the luckiest girl on earth. Here’s to the next half being just as wonderful as the first half!

Yesterday was so awful that I feel the need to get it off my chest, before I catch you up on Our Most Eventful Week Ever (capital letters intended).

It was without doubt the worst diabetic day I’ve had since I came out of hospital post-diagnosis.

Before I begin, let me explain some numbers, so that what I say makes sense to you:
Non-diabetics (normal people) have blood sugar between 4 and 7. Diabetics should always aim for below 10 – 7 is the magic number, but I’m happy anytime I test in the 8s too. Between 10 and 12 is high, over 12 is really high, over 16 is dangerously high and I start panicking. I’m hardly ever over 16 – it means something has gone very wrong (i.e. my insulin isn’t working).

Yesterday, Thursday the 10^th of December, promised to be a somewhat challenging day before it began. We woke up in Cemoro Lawang, the mountainous village not far from Gunung Bromo, the most famous volcano in Java, Indonesia. The plan was that at 9am we would catch a public minibus down the mountain to Probolinggo (1 hour), then catch a train to Banyuwangi (5 and a half hours), then catch a ferry to the port of Denpasar (45 minutes), a bus to Denpasar city (3 and a half hours), and a taxi to Sanur (20 minutes), where we would finally be in Bali and wouldn’t move for 5 days. That’s what was keeping me going: the thought of staying put for a few days. I’ve had a cold all week, so my blood sugar has been slightly high the last few days (I blamed it on infection and simply took more insulin). All in all, though, I was feeling strong.

Everything went smoothly till I tested my sugar two hours after breakfast (we’d just boarded the train) and found it was 15.9 – crazy high considering I’d taken slightly more insulin than usual at breakfast, because of my cold. I thought maybe I was going high because it was so hot (SO hot, like sitting in a humid oven, and we’d been waiting on the platform for an hour) and took another 3 units of insulin, which would definitely take me down to below 10. So far, not too worried.

Two hours later, I tested to see if the insulin had worked (you have to wait 2 hours for it to get into your system).

It hadn’t. I was still really high – 13.4.

So I deduced that the heat had killed my insulin, and took a fresh pen from the cool pack in my backpack. Not too worried. Fresh insulin would sort me out in 2 hours. I had a small lunch, took a generous injection, and waited.

2 hours is a long time to wait when you’re not feeling too well and not sure what your blood sugar is going to do.

When I tested at 3.45pm my blood sugar was 18. The highest it’s been since I came out of hospital over two years ago and figured out carbohydrate counting. The 2nd pen had obviously also been heat damaged, and wasn’t working at all.

And this, dear friends, is when I freaked out. Because if an insulin pen that was in my cool pack wasn’t working, that means that all the insulin pens in my cool pack might not be working. I’ve been as careful as possible with my insulin, but as you know it was left out of the fridge for 2 days last month, and most of the places we’ve been staying in lately haven’t had fridges, so it’s been going in a communal fridge. The weather is so hot here that to take it in and out of the fridge probably doesn’t help, and I’d come to terms with the fact that it wasn’t as effective as fresh insulin. But if it wasn’t working at all that was dangerous. Really dangerous.

We were only due to arrive in Sanur after 10pm. If the next insulin pen didn’t work I wouldn’t be able to eat anything until we could find a hospital or emergency room that could sell me insulin. We’d have to buy insulin to last the next 3 weeks. Who knows if that wouldn’t get heat damaged too – Bali is having its hottest summer ever known.

But on top of all these fears racing around my head was one clear question: Were we idiots for trying to do this? Was 4 months too long to travel in sub-tropical climates with diabetes? Was I being really stupid and careless with my health? For the first time since we left home, I felt scared. I wanted to go home.

But of course I couldn’t. I had a ferry to catch. Two hours later, on board the ferry to Bali, I checked my blood sugar again, and Hallelujah, Praise Every God in Heaven, it was fine. Totally fine. So now I’ve found a magic insulin pen that still works perfectly. I need to test all my others so that I don’t have another yesterday happening to me again in a hurry.

When we finally arrived after 11pm last night, I was completely exhausted and hollowed out. I can handle travelling with a bad cold and stuffy head. I can handle a 14 hour journey. I can handle high blood sugar for 8 or 9 hours (although I’d rather not have to ever again, thank you very much). But a 14 hour journey with a bad cold and high blood sugar is too much for me. Being that high is so awful. I couldn’t stop crying, my head felt full of clouds, my body felt weird and hot, and there was no sense of balance in me, no rational thought to cling to. I honestly haven’t felt scared of being diabetic since I got my eating plan and got it under control over two years ago. Yesterday was the first time that I really felt the weight of my condition.

Poor Mark was wonderful. Calm and soothing and practical, figuring out how we could get to a doctor or a hospital as soon as we arrived, and not getting freaked out by my constant tears.

And now, today, I feel shaky. My blood sugar is fine and I’m eating really normal food to keep it that way. I’m going to test the other insulin pens over the next two days and chuck out anything that doesn’t work, so I’m pretty sure this won’t happen again. Yesterday, of all the days of this wonderful trip, is one day I would not want to repeat. Not for anything.

And just recovering from the trip here. Well, the busy week leading up to the trip here, and then the actual trip itself.

I foolishly thought that because we were flying (from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh at 2pm and then from Ho Chi Minh to Jakarta at 8pm, arriving at 11.30pm) that it would be easier than a land border crossing. Well, no. Yes and no – the actual travel was easier, but finding real food (at a semi-reasonable price) in an international airport is a nightmare, and all the waiting around in queues is pretty exhausting.

And, of course, as is now common, my blood sugar was crazy all day. I think I might be allergic to border crossings.

Actually, I started a new insulin pen the night before, and realised when my sugar went through the roof at breakfast (17! One of the highest readings I’ve ever had!) that it wasn’t working. At all. Of course, seeing as I was high and not thinking straight I’d already given myself a come-down shot by the time I figured this out, and seeing as insulin on its own is usually pretty powerful (even if it’s not working 100%), I didn’t want to jab twice and risk going low on the plane.

Turns out the bad pen wasn’t working at all, so I stayed high for hours until I could test again after lunch. Bleerurgh. By now I was feeling truly rotten. Emotional, irrational, cotton wooly, hot and cold, all kinds of horrible.

I had taken a new pen from my luggage before we checked it in (thank goodness!) and the moment the insulin started to work I felt instantly better – like a fog lifting.

So we arrived in Jakarta at about half past midnight and woke up exhausted yesterday. Mark had a cold, I had a whole heap of tiredness, and we’ve spent the interleding day and a bit catching our breath and aiming for somewhere halfway human. We’re staying at the very comfortable, extremely stylish Alila Jakarta (a lovely business hotel) which is the perfect place to gather our energies. Feeling a LOT better today (both of us), and we’re off travelling and finally seeing a bit of Java in Indonesia tomorrow.

We’ve actually recorded a new video diary, too, but we still have to process it so it’ll be a tad delayed. I think we need a slight break from all the constant uploads too, so if you’ll excuse us, we’ll be taking it easy for the next couple of days!

In the meantime, any tips about Indonesia (on here, on Twitter, or on Facebook) are, as always, appreciated…

One of the things I love most about travelling is the potential for surprising nuggets of inspiration that pop up out of the blue.

Like this Confucius Cup that we found in the oldest house in Hoi An (our favourite place in Vietnam so far)…

The cup has a hole in the bottom of it, but if it is only filled 80%, you can drink out of it no problem – it doesn’t leak out of the bottom. If it’s filled 100%, however, the liquid drains out of the hole in the bottom. The lesson? Don’t be greedy and take more than you need. Ha!

Wouldn’t you love a cup like this? (Apparently it’s the last one in Vietnam – take a look at it below)…

A lot of people have been asking me, in the past few days, if I’m feeling nervous about the trip.

Surprisingly, the answer is no.

This is surprising because I’m a homebody who is most comfortable in her little nest, because I’m something of a worrier and because, as we all know by now, I have some control issues. So you would think, now that I’m leaving my nest into a world of unknown with very little control, I’d be feeling a tad anxious. Not so. Here’s why:

* Mainly, because I’m going with Mark. He’s the perfect travel companion, not only because we know each other inside out, but because he’s so familiar with diabetes, and particularly with my diabetes. He’s also not easily flustered, has a great sense of geography and direction (which I most certainly do not!) and makes me feel like I’m home. What a winning combination!

* Also, because we’re not going to be rushing. Thank goodness we’re not doing a new country every two weeks! With a month to explore each country, there’s really no need to be rushing anywhere, and I have a theory that as long as you’re not in a rush, things are less likely to get overwhelming. Being lost turns from being a panic situation to being an adventure. A three-day journey is just that – three days of journeying. Take out the stress and everything is an adventure.

* And finally, because I have enough books to read. This might sound silly, but reading is one of my all-time-favourite things to do, and if I run out of books I get panicky. True! So I am hugely relieved that I bought a Kindle when I went to America, and that I’ve stocked it with 19 books – two a month and one extra. I can add more to it as we go along, but this is enough reading material to keep me from having to ration words. And as long as I have a book to curl up with, I know I’ll be happy. And feel safe…

What makes you feel safe? Do you know?

So we’re now a mere week-and-a-day away from our Big Adventure, and it’s time to call in the big guns… AKA everyone we know.

Do you have any travel tips for us? Please?

What’s the one thing we mustn’t leave behind?
What’s the best tip you got about travelling?
What do you wish you’d known last time you set off into the great blue yonder?

We’re going to Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Mexico, Peru, Chile, Argentina and Brazil.

Have you been to any of these countries?
Where should we go?
What should we do?
What shouldn’t we do?

We’re away for 9 months, in mostly autumn weather. And we’re packing this week.

What should we pack?
What should we leave behind?

Any and all advice greatly appreciated!

So Mark and I have just had the most wonderfully exciting week… Well, week and a bit. It really gave us a taste for the adventures ahead, and let me tell you – we’re ready! Totally and completely ready. We quite happily lived out of a suitcase for 2 weeks, quite happily didn’t know exactly where we were going to be sleeping the next night, and quite happily lived in each other’s pockets without getting tired of one another.

I am all of a sudden SO SO SO excited to be going!!!

So our Thrilling Week and a Half began with a ride on the Blue Train… oh my goodness, how to describe the Blue Train? I’ll post a real review of it on Just the Planet, but let me just tell you it was 27 hours of heaven. We boarded the train tired and stressed out (we were really busy before we left) and disembarked calm and happy. Magical, indeed.

It wasn’t just the train ride – although that was amazing, watching the world go by through large panoramic windows. And it wasn’t just the food – although that was delicious, and plentiful (3 course lunch, afternoon tea, snacks and sundowners, 3 course dinner and breakfast). It was partly the service, which was incredibly friendly and totally on-the-ball. But it was mainly the experience of it… To be on a train rumbling through the wild open spaces of South Africa, perfectly comfortable but simultaneously out in the open. We loved it.

And were actually really sad to step off the train. I felt quite down.

Lucky, then, that our next port of call was the beautiful Illyria House. Totally over-the-top, completely bedecked in antiques, but with an extremely comfortable white-linen-bed and a delicious garden pagoda jacuzzi. Who knew Pretoria could be exotic? We headed off after a silver service breakfast to the Mexican Embassy to get our visas (easy as pie), and shortly afterwards made our way to the bustling heart of Joburg.

I’ve never been a fan of Joburg. It’s one of my least favourite places in South Africa, in fact. But if I could stay at AtholPlace all the time, I might even consider moving there. It was that beautiful. Every segment of the house fit into each other so perfectly that it looked like the pages of an interior design magazine… Only it was deeply comfortable at the same time. I had to do some work while we were there, and my desk was set up in front of white wooden shutters looking out over the garden… Heaven, I tell you!

After AtholPlace we spent a night with Mark’s sister-in-law and nephew (what a cute baby!) and then flew home (to Durban, the city I’m still in love with) for a few days with my family, before heading off to Phinda Private Game Reserve. Mark had only seen a rhino in the wild before we arrived at Phinda. When we left he’d seen a herd of elephant, a journey of giraffe (isn’t that a great collective noun?), a white rhino and her baby, a black rhino marking his territory, a rather shy leopard, a cheetah mother with her three teenagers, hundreds of zebra, nyala and impala, and a chilled-out herd of buffalo. Throw in a bush pig, two crocs (up close!), and a monitor lizard and you can tell we had a busy two days!

Phinda was such a great experience in itself, though, apart from all the game. The staff were wonderfully friendly and really went the extra-mile for us, and their community work projects are truly inspiring. I’m writing it all up for Just the Planet – I’ll let you know when you can read them.

Till then, time to settle back into home for our last 2 weeks before The Big Adventure begins!

So I’ve just returned from a 3 week solo trip to the USA, to publicise my novel, Strange Nervous Laughter, being released over there. Very exciting, let me tell you! I don’t think I’ll ever get over the thrill of seeing my book on bookstore shelves…

In many ways, though, this trip felt like a test run for our Round the World trip. It was my first time travelling overseas on my own with diabetes and my first time crossing time zones with diabetes, and I really wasn’t sure how I would feel. I am (very) happy to report that I felt great! The whole time. It was no problem adjusting to new types of food, no problem taking long plane trips (except for the discomfort of having to sleep sitting up!) and in general I felt really healthy and full of energy. What a relief!

It was also a test run for me to see how I feel about travelling. Knowing that my next trip will be over ten times as long as this one, I kept checking to see how excited I was about it. The verdict? Unbelievably excited! There is something so exhilarating about travelling, it makes me feel really alive and open to everything around me. I didn’t realise how much of a routine real life was until I had 3 weeks away from it… and it has done nothing but wet my appetite for our Big Adventure later this year.

Of course, a lot of that was because I was travelling in comfort. I’ve been to the States and back many times – I used to study there – and every single time I went, packing was a nightmare. Either my bag would break, or I’d have to leave half the stuff I wanted behind, or I’d pull a muscle dragging my suitcase through the airport. Seriously – you name a luggage affliction, I’ve had it!

This time, though… what a breeze! I gave my very fancy (very beautiful) Samsonite Aeris a run for its money, and it more than rose to the challenge. Somehow my stuff kept multiplying (possibly because everything was on sale!) and every time I had to pack up and go, it was more and more of a challenge to fit everything in. But fit it in I did! The beautiful thing about this suitcase is that it’s solid, but it can also expand. Don’t ask me how this works, but it does… And the locks are so secure and tight that I didn’t have to worry about it bursting open in the middle of the airport (or, worse yet, on the New York City subway!) Of course, those miracle Vac Bags helped a lot, too. If there’s one thing I would recommend every girl to take with her on holiday, it’s Vac Bags. No matter how many dresses you buy, they’ll fit in your suitcase if you have these bags. I didn’t really believe the hype until I saw how dramatically they reduced the space my clothes took up. Now I’m permanently indebted to them.

So now I’ve returned, and although my suitcase is looking slightly travel-worn, I’m sure she has many years of adventures in her yet.

What did I learn from this trip? A number of things, actually.
* Diabetically, I’m going to be fine.
* I can’t wait to start travelling around the world.
* And, perhaps most importantly, I have to leave at least half a suitcase for all the temptations I’m going to run into on the way!