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Catherine is a South African travel writer. Based in San Francisco, she also works for an online media company in beween daydreaming about her next trip abroad.
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San Francisco: Don’t you know I’m local?
10 June 2009

In a city as well known as San Francisco, the best things about it are famous the world over. There’s the Golden Gate Bridge with its instantly recognisable shape and burnt red colour, stretching between Marin County and the Peninsula. There’s the view from the top of Coit Tower, where the rows of Victorian houses perched on the steep hills below look like rolls of pastel-coloured sweets. There’s “The Rock” – the island prison of Alcatraz where Al Capone was incarcerated, and from where a few have managed a daring escape. There’s Fisherman’s Wharf, with its clam chowder and pier-side seals, and just nearby is Chinatown, with its bustling stores selling trinkets and food. Enveloping all of this is the ever-present downtown skyline, its silhouette made distinctive by the triangular Trans-America building stretching proudly towards the sky. These are the things about San Francisco that you’ll find splashed across every well-known guidebook about the city, and no one disputes that they’re absolutely worth seeing. But if you want to get to know the true soul of this place, to discover what really gives it its free-spirited character, you’ll have to dig a little deeper. By far the best way to do this is to experience the city as a local. Fortunately, I’ve done the hard work already, having befriended some Bay Area locals during the almost three years I’ve lived here. I say hard work, because true locals are a rare breed: San Francisco is known as a “transplant city” where almost everyone is from somewhere else. Finding one is like striking gold though, because seeing the city through their eyes is a revelation. It’s like you’re suddenly in a parallel city to the one the tourists see; one which occupies the same space but feels completely different. Taking the time to explore San Francisco like a local will give you an insight into why even people who’ve lived here for decades still wax lyrical about a place that is, to them anyway, utterly familiar. Straight from the mouth of the locals, then, here are five recommended activities that show off the “real” San Francisco: Soak up the sun in Delores Park: Because fogless days are so rare in the city, when the sun does eventually shine, all local roads lead to Delores Park. A welcome patch of greenery in the fairly built-up Mission district, Delores Park sits alongside the original Spanish mission that gives the area its name. The park perches on a plateau, which means you’ll have the cityscape at your feet while you enjoy a barbecue or picnic. If you can handle crowds, look out for events such as the annual soapbox race, or the “Hunky Jesus” contest held in the park. If you’re after a slightly mellower scene, any usual weekend day will do. Walk through the Presidio: Originally a Spanish fort and later a military facility, the Presidio is today a public park with a huge amount of green open space, wooded forest and recreational facilities. Located at the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge, the Presidio has sweeping vistas of the Bay and Pacific Ocean - clearly the soldiers who lived and worked here knew a good view when they saw one! Walk through the forests up on the hill to get the best views of the bridge, or picnic on Crissy Field below, where you’ll have front row seats for watching the wind and kitesurfers in Shop for produce at the Ferry Building: Far from being just a place to catch a ferry, San Francisco’s ferry terminal is also a favourite stop for local foodies with a penchant for luxury. The inside of the terminal bustles with trendy patrons buying gourmet food including chocolate, wine, preserves and pastries. Notable stops include Sharffen Berger, with its decadently dark chocolates and sauces, and renowned local artisan cheesemaker Cowgirl Creamery, which is famous for its organic specialties like Mt. Tam, Red Hawk and Pierce Point. The terminal also has several good restaurant options like the Hog Island Oyster Company, where you can feast on fresh oysters washed down with a glass of bubbly, all while enjoying views of the Bay from your table outside. If you visit the terminal on a Saturday, don’t miss the Farmer’s Market outside, where local farmers travel in from outside of the city each week to sell their organic produce to eager locals. You’ll find a wide range of only the freshest fruit and vegetables for sale here, along with homemade foods like jams, dried fruit and breads. Shop for clothes and interiors in Hayes Valley: From its seedy beginnings as part of San Francisco’s underbelly, Hayes Valley is today a chic haven of fashion, art and design – mostly due to the urban gentrification that began to take place here about a decade ago. Hayes Street, the neighbourhood’s main artery, is now lined with trendy boutiques selling everything from locally-designed haute couture to leather boots and jewellery. As well as fashion, Hayes Valley is known for its eclectic interior design stores and funky art galleries. Shops like Minimal and Lavish sell both contemporary furniture and vintage household décor, while art galleries like the Bucheon and Haze Gallery feature works by emerging and established artists. Once you’ve given your credit card a workout, stop for a bite at one of the Parisian-inspired patisseries nearby. Miette’s picture-perfect store interior contains cupcakes, cookies and toffees and candies in old school sweet jars, while Citizen Cake has an impressive range of pastries from its bakery, but also serves full meals as well. Another good option is La Boulange de Hayes, a bakery and sit-down café that serves coffees and sweet pastries like chocolate croissants, home made tortes and madeleines, as well as savoury quiches and open-faced sandwiches for casual lunches and afternoon snacks. Order a coffee at the Blue Bottle Kiosk: Also located in trendy Hayes Valley, the Blue Bottle Kiosk is a cult favourite for serious coffee aficionados. It’s so popular that a long line wraps around the block on a Saturday morning, but at least that makes for a good place marker if you’re visiting for the first time. Blue Bottle is run by coffee purists, so their small menu consists of no-fuss espresso drinks and drip coffees made from only the highest quality coffee beans. Whatever you do then, don’t out yourself as an undiscerning Starbucks clone by asking for a half-caf, extra skinny, no-foam latte.

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