Maputo fish market, Mozambique

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MAPUTO FISH MARKET

| GOURMET TRAVEL

Maputo fish market, Mozambique

Maputo is not a place most travellers choose to spend their time because of its war-zone exterior. Instead they scoot on through and up the coast to seek the island paradise for which Mozambique is famous. For those who have time in Maputo, there are a few interesting places to stop and as far as culinary advice is concerned, go straight to the local fish market. The seafood is cheap, cheerful and utterly delicious.

Text Robyn Hodson
Photography Robyn Hodson & www.flatartstudios.com (Dawie Verwey)
Published 13th March 2008

Entering Maputo, one is tempted to think it has survived a recent shelling, not one as long ago as 1992. To be honest it was exciting and at the same time a little horrifying. Not since entering Managua’s earthquake zone, had I felt so unnerved by a capital city. The buildings are bullet-marked, there are more pot-holes than roads and slow-moving cars are besieged by road-sellers and beggars. It was tempting to pass straight on through and up the coast to beautiful Inhambane with its palm trees, clear waters and white, sandy beaches.

Now before you think I’m a big chicken, please remember that I am the adventurous sort (really!) and not one to let a small thing like maniacal local driving or giant-cockroach-infested hotel-rooms put me off.

So if you’re up for a little adventure and you feel you can give Maputo a chance, there are many beautiful spots around the city… but you have to look for them. The station, designed by Gustav Eiffel in 1910 is just one of them… and whatever you do, if you’re a foodie – don’t miss the Maputo Fish Market. It’s all about two words… Mozambiquan prawns.

Fishermen come to the market in the early evening with their catch. You can pretend you’re a celebrity chef, strutting the aisles (where most of the prawns look exactly the same actually), selecting your favourites. For a steal, you can pick up KILOGRAMS of prawns… and then take them to the back of the market where you’ll be leapt upon by eager stall owners, offering to cook them for you – with added extras like rice, salad and fries. Don’t say no to a chilled local beer either… you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Maputo fish market, Mozambique - photography by Dawie Verwey

HINT Something I learned and something you should make a note of immediately, follow them into their kitchens and make sure they are cooking your seafood and not some old stock, reselling yours to the market out the back door! If you have a camera, take a picture. That’ll ensure you don’t get cheated. Stay wise – the city is a poor but friendly place and you’ll be beautifully ripped off with a smile!

The atmosphere, the gorgeous smell of seafood, a cold beer, crowds of locals and tourists enjoying their food in the outdoors is an amazing recipe for a good time.

NOTE Please don’t buy their undersized crayfish. The fish stocks in Mozambique are being heavily depleted and the fishermen are desperate. The fish board turns a blind eye to the over-fishing of the crustaceans in the area, however, it seems that the prawns are still plentiful so enjoy those instead.

HOW TO GET THERE It’s definitely best to ask your hotel concierge to brief a taxi driver first. However, if you’re catching a taxi from town ask the driver to take you down to the beach road, Avenida Marginal. After the large petrol station on the left (you’ll pass it if you’re coming from the centre of town), turn left into Rua Palma and you’ll see the entrance on the right. You can’t miss all the people!