THE LUXURY TRAVEL
MAGAZINE FOR INDEPENDENT
TRAVELLERS

A long driveway is often an auspicious portent of things to come. When that driveway is the entrance to a 6,000-acre property of mandarine orange, kiwi, lemon and persimmon and acres of rolling hills, disturbed only by cattle and grazing sheep, the anticipation is heightened. One is hardly prepared, however, for the sight of the Lodge at Kauri Cliffs: the vista of an emerald sea, waves crashing on the white sand in the background, one hundred shades of green rolling hills of the world-acclaimed golf course making up the mid-ground and the gracious Manor House, with Georgian style wrap-around porch, the foreground. All this, just a one-hour flight from Auckland to nearby Keri Keri in the Bay of Islands.

The Lodge is now run by Jay Robertson, the son of legendary New York financier Julian Robertson. Significant shoes to fill: Jay, at age 28, is doing a fine job of looking after people, making each individual feel as if he were the only one that mattered. Without exception, the guests had nothing but glowing things to say of their experience.

Julian's idea had been to make the property a golf course (and it is one of the most spectacular in the world with water views from 15 of the holes on this par-72 course), but it was at his wife, Josie's, insistence that he built a full-fledged resort. She is the ‘creator’ behind the project and her design sense is stunning. It has been called a South Carolina plantation house and an East Hampton summer cottage, but it really defies traditional description because it is uniquely ‘Josie’. She and New Zealand interior designer Virginia Fisher have either designed, discovered, or commissioned every piece of furniture, every mirror, every fireplace mantel, table, chair or desk. The floors are wide-plank pickled totara wood, alternated with narrow deckle-edged strips. The ‘parlor’ is enormous and flanked by fireplaces rough-hewn from native kauri-wood. A central atrium opens up into other public spaces, each with its own hearth and each opening by walls of French doors onto the wrap-around verandah overlooking the golf course, with hills plummeting into the sea. There is a beautiful collection, throughout the public areas of the Lodge, of eclectic treasures: an Indian chest with iron carvings, Georgian style pediment mirrors, a Chinese zither table, a gilded bronze coffee table, a Balinese rain drum and a 19th century French spire clock face all meld seamlessly into the sophistication of the ambience.

The accommodations are eleven board-and-batten cottages (ranging from 840 to 1500 NZD, which includes breakfast, dinner, cocktail hour, use of the pool and gym, snacks and drinks, other than spirits, and most anything else you might desire other than the golf), surrounded by a subtropical-like glade created by Geoff Pickles. Their windows, French doors and verandahs enjoy the same view as the main house give or take a few silver ferns. Bedrooms are spacious kings with hand-quilted bedding, his and her dressing rooms, huge bathrooms with porcelain tubs, separate rain shower, and separate toilet area, all generously supplied with Evolu, a luxurious local range of herbal skincare products. http://www.evolu.com I suggest requesting a Deluxe Suite, which at 900 square feet is a bit more spacious than it's 840 square foot younger brother. Every suite is lovely, however. I enjoyed The Owner's Cottage (5,000 – 6,500 NZD), an accommodation larger than my small villa in northern Italy (at 4,200 square feet), with a private infinity pool and outdoor Jacuzzi, private subtropical garden, separate office, master and guest suite, master and guest bathroom, butler's pantry (which is more like a kitchen), garage, and finally, my own golf cart to get me from place to place should laziness take hold (not an entirely rare occurrence).

Their spa was six weeks old at the time I visited and so I was honored to be the first to review it. It is nestled on the edge of a Totara forest and overlooks a verdant fern glen and winding stream. Each treatment room is equipped with a shower and changing area and has floor to ceiling views of the Glen. The treatment rooms open up to a private outdoor space so you can have your treatments al fresco. The massage was wonderful, the therapist blessed with the intuitive hands that make deep tissue massage a wonder rather than a worry. Couples can choose the ‘Couples Spa Suite’ which features dual massage tables, deep plunge soak tub, double shower, indoor/outdoor lounging areas complete with double chaise longue. The gym facilities include a thoughtfully equipped locker room, sauna, Jacuzzi spa pool and 100-foot (30 metre) heated indoor lap pool, as well as a state-of-the-art fitness center with the full spectrum of exercise equipment. There are also two artificial grass tennis courts, adult and children's mountain bikes and a basketball hoop.